The excavator sprocket drives the track chain. It meshes with chain links and pins. It transfers power from final drive. Over time teeth wear down, deform, or drop off. Worn sprocket causes track slippage, faster wear on chain, rollers. Replacing the sprocket gives better track life and smoother operation. It saves undercarriage cost long term.
Park excavator on flat level ground. Lower boom and blade. Use lockouts to disable hydraulics. Wear gloves, eye protection, steel boots. Use jack stands or blocks so machine does not shift. Remove ignition or key. Ensure you have space around undercarriage. Safety prevents injuries.
You need correct tools and replacement components:
Socket set and breaker bar
Torque wrench
Hammer or rubber mallet
Pry bars and chisels
Penetrating oil
Replacement drive nuts and bolts
The new sprocket that matches model
Weld-on or bolt-on segment (if undercarriage design uses segments)
Before removal, inspect the old sprocket: tooth tip shape, root, wear pattern. Compare wear to chain pitch. If chain is too loose, sprocket wear often severe. Check for cracks or broken teeth. Also check final drive hub and spline. Clean grease and debris so you see condition. That inspection helps ensure you buy correct replacement.
Loosen the track. Use the track adjuster to release tension on track chain. Let chain sag slightly. You may need to back off adjuster grease valve. Wait until track moves freely. This step reduces stress during sprocket removal. If track stays tight, sprocket removal risks damage or injury.

Raise excavator on blocks or jack stands. Use the machine’s blade or boom to lift and stabilize undercarriage. Make sure weight is supported safely. Do not work under unsupported machine. Raise enough so sprocket is accessible. Maintain stability.
Spray penetrating oil on nuts and bolts. Let sit. Use breaker bar to break loose. If bolts are corroded, tap gently with hammer to loosen. Remove each bolt gradually. Don’t force one bolt too hard before loosening others. Use correct socket size. Keep removed bolts in safe place.
Once bolts are removed, you may need to pry sprocket off hub. Use pry bars gently. If stuck, use gentle tapping around hub flange. Avoid damaging hub or final drive. Sometimes a soft-hammer knocks sprocket off. Clean the hub surface after removal. Remove all rust or debris.
Wire brush or file hub flange surface. Clean old gasket or sealant. Remove rust, paint, grime. Replace any old gasket material if required. Ensure spline and bolt surfaces are flat and clean. Proper mating surface ensures new sprocket aligns well and bolts seat correctly.
Place new sprocket onto the drive hub. Align bolt holes correctly. If your excavator uses sprocket segments (sprocket segment design), install all segments evenly. Make sure segment seams match. Use bolt-on type if full sprocket. For segmented sprocket, install all segments before tightening.
Tighten bolts in star or cross pattern. Bring bolts to snug first. Then torque to manufacturer value. If no spec sheet, use general torque table for excavator size. Tighten gradually. Over-tightening warps sprocket; under-tightening loosens under load.
| Excavator Size (ton) | Typical Bolt Count | Sample Bolt Torque (ft-lb) |
|---|---|---|
| 5-10 ton | 8 bolts | ~150-200 ft-lb |
| 20-30 ton | 10 bolts | ~300-400 ft-lb |
| 40-50 ton | 12 bolts | ~500-650 ft-lb |
Use this table only as guide. Always check your machine manual.
After sprocket installation, re-tension track chain. Use track adjuster. Tighten until correct sag per spec. Too loose causes derailment. Too tight causes strain on sprocket and track pins. Check both sides equally. Operate machine slowly to let chain settle.
Grease hub bolts if required. Lubricate final drive seals if needed. Ensure grease holes are clean. Use proper grease type. Grease helps prevent rusting and seizure of bolts.
Lower excavator from supports. Move machine over flat hard ground slowly. Observe track motion. Listen for skipping or slipping. Inspect bolt tightness again after few hours of operation. Check for misalignment or abnormal vibration.
Wear on sprocket arises from dirty track, mis-tensioned chain, hardened pins. Clean track daily. Remove debris. Tension track correctly. Replace worn chain or rollers when needed. Keep undercarriage parts aligned.
Some excavator sprocket designs use segments that bolt together. Segment replacement saves cost if only partial wear. Full sprocket replacement gives uniform performance. But replacing segments requires precision. Each segment must align; bolts torqued evenly.

Always support machine well. Use proper gloves, eye protection. Keep hands away from pinch points. Use proper lifting gear for heavy sprocket parts. Do not rush. If parts hot from operation, wait to cool. Keep spectators out of work area.
Bolt breakage: use correct torque, good bolts. Misalignment: ensure hub face clean. Track tension wrong: causes skipping or wear. Loose segments: torque properly and inspect regularly. Rust and corrosion: keep parts clean and greased.
Check sprocket bolts weekly for first hours. Inspect teeth after working in abrasive conditions (rock, sand). Monitor track links and rollers for joint wear. Keep undercarriage lubrication good. Replace chain or rollers when they show wear so sprocket does not wear unevenly.
Choose proper material. Heat treatment adds hardness to tooth faces. Durability resists wear and impact. Good finishing reduces sharp corners which cut track pins. Using low quality sprocket leads to early failure. Ensure replacement matches OEM specs or approved aftermarket.
Replacing excavator sprocket takes labor time. Time depends on machine size, undercarriage design, access. Cost includes new sprocket or segments, bolts, tools, labor. Better investment now reduces cost later from undercarriage damage.
Working in mud, sand, abrasives speeds wear. Working in wet conditions causes rust which seizes bolts. Cold weather makes steel brittle. Hot weather expands parts. Plan sprocket change during favorable weather when possible. Clean parts often.
Get parts and tools ready before starting. Read service manual. Mark parts and positions where needed. Photograph current setup to help reassembly. Ensure you have torque specs. Clear working space. Ensure safe lifting.
You inspected old part, removed track tension, lifted and supported machine. You removed bolts, pulled old sprocket, cleaned hub. You fitted new sprocket or segments, torqued bolts, re-tensioned track. You tested under load. You planned maintenance to prevent early wear.