We recommend that newcomers collect this guide to shifting your bike in case you have any problems with your mountain bike!
Once you have assembled your mountain bike, don't be in a hurry to test ride it! To protect the rear derailleur, the rear derailleur is set to the maximum pylon gear, i.e. 1st gear. Once the bike is assembled, gently rotate the rear wheel in this gear to see if the spokes of the rear wheel rub against the rear derailleur.
If you encounter this problem, the first thing to do is to determine whether the shifting cable is not strong enough or whether it is a problem with the H-limit screw.
The way to determine this is to use the exposed cable on the frame riser (some are under the frame); pull the exposed cable by hand in the direction of yourself and turn the cassette at the same time. Then you need to strengthen the cable. There are two ways to do this. One way is to turn the fine adjustment screw on the left-hand paddle counter-clockwise, several times until you reach 3rd gear! If the fine adjustment screw doesn't work and you can't get it to the right strength, you need to do it the second way, by first shifting the transmission to 1st gear. Feel the exposed cable with your hand to see if it is particularly loose, then loosen the screw on the front derailleur that holds the cable in place. Tighten the cable by about 3 mm. When tightening the cable, turn the left-hand fine adjustment screw clockwise to the innermost part of the cable, and then turn it twice counterclockwise to ensure that the cable is tight when it is loose, and also to ensure that the cable is loose when it is tight through the fine adjustment screw. There is no need to pull the line all the way tight and then go to change to 3rd gear.
Backing out of 1st gear is actually the initial state of the front derailleur. This is because the shifter cable is loosened back to create the backshift. Check that the exposed cable on the frame riser is not loose, if it is, it is normal. If it is tight, then tighten it clockwise by using the fine adjustment screw on the left-hand paddle and turn the disc while doing so to shift to 1st gear. If the fine adjustment screw is still not strong enough, loosen the screw that holds the shifting cable. Let the shifting cable exert no force on the front derailleur. If it is possible to shift back to 1st gear, fix the cable. If this is not possible, turn the L screw counter-clockwise until the shifter is in 1st gear, turning the disc while doing so.
If the exposed cable is loose, turn the L-screw counter-clockwise until the gears are in 1st gear, turning the disc as you go. In short, you can adjust the tightness of the cable to adjust any problems with the front derailleur.
The rear derailleur is shifted in the same way as the front derailleur, from the smallest to the largest paddle by tightening the cable. The rear derailleur is shifted from 1st gear to the smallest pylon by loosening the cable. The rear derailleur is very easy to set up, the most difficult part is shifting from the smallest to the second smallest and from the largest tower wheel! We are a mountain bike supplier, please feel free to contact us if you have any questions.
We recommend that newcomers collect this guide to shifting your bike in case you have any problems with your mountain bike!
Once you have assembled your mountain bike, don't be in a hurry to test ride it! To protect the rear derailleur, the rear derailleur is set to the maximum pylon gear, i.e. 1st gear. Once the bike is assembled, gently rotate the rear wheel in this gear to see if the spokes of the rear wheel rub against the rear derailleur.
If you encounter this problem, the first thing to do is to determine whether the shifting cable is not strong enough or whether it is a problem with the H-limit screw.
The way to determine this is to use the exposed cable on the frame riser (some are under the frame); pull the exposed cable by hand in the direction of yourself and turn the cassette at the same time. Then you need to strengthen the cable. There are two ways to do this. One way is to turn the fine adjustment screw on the left-hand paddle counter-clockwise, several times until you reach 3rd gear! If the fine adjustment screw doesn't work and you can't get it to the right strength, you need to do it the second way, by first shifting the transmission to 1st gear. Feel the exposed cable with your hand to see if it is particularly loose, then loosen the screw on the front derailleur that holds the cable in place. Tighten the cable by about 3 mm. When tightening the cable, turn the left-hand fine adjustment screw clockwise to the innermost part of the cable, and then turn it twice counterclockwise to ensure that the cable is tight when it is loose, and also to ensure that the cable is loose when it is tight through the fine adjustment screw. There is no need to pull the line all the way tight and then go to change to 3rd gear.
Backing out of 1st gear is actually the initial state of the front derailleur. This is because the shifter cable is loosened back to create the backshift. Check that the exposed cable on the frame riser is not loose, if it is, it is normal. If it is tight, then tighten it clockwise by using the fine adjustment screw on the left-hand paddle and turn the disc while doing so to shift to 1st gear. If the fine adjustment screw is still not strong enough, loosen the screw that holds the shifting cable. Let the shifting cable exert no force on the front derailleur. If it is possible to shift back to 1st gear, fix the cable. If this is not possible, turn the L screw counter-clockwise until the shifter is in 1st gear, turning the disc while doing so.
If the exposed cable is loose, turn the L-screw counter-clockwise until the gears are in 1st gear, turning the disc as you go. In short, you can adjust the tightness of the cable to adjust any problems with the front derailleur.
The rear derailleur is shifted in the same way as the front derailleur, from the smallest to the largest paddle by tightening the cable. The rear derailleur is shifted from 1st gear to the smallest pylon by loosening the cable. The rear derailleur is very easy to set up, the most difficult part is shifting from the smallest to the second smallest and from the largest tower wheel! We are a mountain bike supplier, please feel free to contact us if you have any questions.