Steps for installing rain gutter
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For homes in most parts of the country, storm gutters and downspouts are necessary to collect and carry away rainwater. Without them, the water erodes the soil around the foundation, splashing dirt onto the siding and possibly leaking into the basement or crawl space. So how to install their own rain gutter ? You can refer to the steps
1. Draw a layout line
Mark the highest point of the gutter on the lintel 1/4 inch below the flash at the metal drip edge (the gutter is lower on the super wide lintel shown here).
At the other end of the lintel (the location of the spout if there is a spout in the middle), mark the lower end of the gutter, remembering that every 10 feet of gutter should have a slope of about half an inch.
Draw a chalk line between these two points (as shown).
Prompt. Inspect lintel for rot before installing gutter and repair if necessary.
2. Install the fascia plate bracket
Nail the gutter mounting bracket to the lintel board
Find the end of the rafters behind the lintel; They are usually spaced 16 inches apart in the center (look for distinct nail heads).
Make a mark on the chalk line at the end of each rafter.
At each marker a ⅛ in diameter pilot hole is drilled through the lintel and into the tail of the rafters.
Secure the lintel bracket with ¼ inch stainless steel lag screws long enough to penetrate the rafters 2 inches (as shown).
Prompt. Soap the lag screws so they can more easily pass through the lintel and into the tail of the rafters.
3. Saw the gutter to length
Cut the gutter to length using a hacksaw and aerial shears, or a 12-inch chainsaw fitted with a carbide blade (as shown).
If the gutter continues to go around a corner, cut the appropriate Angle at that end (usually 45 degrees).
If two sections of gutter are required, overlap them 8 inches and connect them using 3/8 inch tapping stainless steel screws or pop-up rivets in two rows of four.
Prompt. Place screws or rivets on the sides of the gutter, not the bottom.
4. Install the end cover
At the square cut of the gutter, secure a spherical end cover with an aluminum pop - up rivet. (If there is no corner of the gutter, fix a cover at each end).
To do this, temporarily secure the end cover with a metal plate screw, then drill a 1/8-inch diameter hole and install a pop-up rivet (above).
Remove temporary screws and replace them with rivets.
To ensure that the joints are watertight, seal the rivet and the inner end cover joints of the gutter with high quality silicide caulk.
5. Cut downpipe holes
Mark the location of the lower end of the gutter with the drain.
To do this, turn the gutter upside down and place the outlet on top.
Draw the drain hole on the gutter on the inside of the outlet.
Drill a ¼ inch diameter hole in the center of the circular outline.
Turn the gutter over and cut the hole in the sewer line with a 4-inch diameter hole saw clipped in the drill (as shown). (You can also cut holes with a hammer and cold chisel).
6. Install gutter
Place the gutter in the bracket you fixed to the lintel board with lag screws.
Rotate the gutter upward until its trailing edge slides into the top hook behind the bracket (as shown).
Drill a 3/16 "diameter hole on the leading edge of the gutter through the screw mounting holes on each bracket.
Secure the gutter to the bracket with a 1-inch long 8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flange nut.
Prompt. Aluminum gutters and brackets can be painted to match -- or contrast -- the decor of the house.
7. Create strip gaps at corners
Cover the joint between the two trenches at each corner with an aluminum strip (3 inches wide).
Wrap aluminum strips tightly around the bottom of the gutter. Secure with eight pop up rivets or metal plate screws.
Use scissors to cut a triangular section from the top of the aluminum strip (as shown), then fold down the two baffles on the top edge of the gutter.
The joint can also be made more waterproof by adding a high quality silicide sealant.
8. Connect downspout to gutter
Secure the sewer opening to the gutter with four pop - up rivets or screws.
Screw a sewer bend to the outlet pipe that comes down from the gutter.
Place another bend on top of the house and cut out a drain pipe so it fits between the two bends.
Use the needle-nose pliers to press the elbow slightly so it fits the downspout (as shown).
Hold the parts together with pop-up rivets or screws.
Tip: Use two downspout supports for a one-story house and three for a two-story house.